Monday, August 11, 2014

Just Add a Little Mustard to Spice Up Your Life

Mustard is a condiment made from the seeds of a mustard plant (white or yellow mustard, brown or Indian mustard, or black mustard). The whole, ground, cracked or bruised mustard seeds are mixed with water, salt, lemon juice or other liquids and sometimes other flavorings and spices to create a paste or sauce ranging in color from bright yellow to dark brown. (Wikipedia)

If you have issues wading through the thousands of barbeque sauce options, then you’re going to have a lot more issues trying to pick your favorite mustards . . . There seem to be millions of them.

But mustard is also a more “divisive” condiment than barbeque sauce, and a lot of people just don’t care for the spicy stuff. For a number of people, mustard simply boils down to the bright yellow goodness we put on hot dogs every summer. We run into the grocery store, grab a squeeze bottle of French’s yellow mustard (or something equally grocery-store-shelf visible), a bottle of ketchup, jar of sweet relish and we’re off to the cookout. And that’s it.

Let’s add a few twists, and expand y com our mustard horizons just a touch.

First, yellow mustard. This is what I reach for first when I’m having a couple of hot dogs. My usual pick is French’s, if for no other reason than it’s the one I usually see first on the shelf, but Heinz is readily available and just as good. These are all pretty simple, with just a touch of bite. Ya gotta love the electric yellow color, though.

Sweet mustard works with a number of foods. No, not hot dogs, but as a dip, or on a grilled ham and cheese, with a cheese plate, on grilled chicken or pork, or on the side with your Easter ham. Find one with a good balance between the sweet (usually honey) and the mustard. A simple choice like French’s Honey Mustard doesn’t offer a great deal of complexity or underlying spice, but it’s cheap and easy to find. Gulden’s has good sweetness and a bit more spice.

Some of my new favorites are Little Thief Mustards, available through Lucero Olive Oil (www.lucerooliveoil.com). Try the Tequila Jalapeno Kiss, Beer Blaze or Sweet Roasted Garlic. All have good depth and aren’t moderately spicy. Good as dips or ham and turkey sandwiches.

(As an aside, our favorite, Harrington’s Honey Mustard isn’t in the lineup because to order two jars costs more to ship than purchase. For a $14.95 item, $14.99 is simply a ridiculous shipping charge, so we didn’t order any. This is an issue most companies have favorably addressed, but some, like Harrington’s, whose products we love, charges for shipping based on purchase priced, not on weight or a flat fee up to a certain dollar amount. Lucero, as a comparison, charges a flat rate of $8.95 for an order up to $100, and free shipping after that.)

Want spice? The whole world just opened up.

Start with Gulden’s Spicy Brown Mustard, a pantry favorite, has good moderate spice, and a smooth, creamy texture. Nathan’s regular Cooney Island mustard is a good choice for hot dogs (go figure), but I found their Spicy Brown mustard OK on spice, but a bit off-putting on texture with a slight mushy grainy feel. Kosciusko Spicy Brown Mustard has mild spice and is smooth and creamy. Grey Poupon, another household favorite, offers a wide variety of mustards (like Guldens), from the standard dijon to a slightly seedy Country Dijon to a more robust and seedy whole grain mustard. None are too spicy. I use Grey Poupon on sandwiches, with pork and in vinaigrettes.

Want more kick? . . . Start with the classic Coleman’s Mustard in the iconic small jar. They, too, make a variety of mustards, but are best known for that English mustard and a sharp mustard power. Try adding the powder to spice mixes and barbeque rubs. The jarred mustard is great on pastrami, corned beef or roast beef sandwiches or brats and other sausages. (Bangers and mash anyone?)

Horseradish lovers owe themselves a jar of western New York regional favorite Weber’s Horseradish Mustard, a sharp, nose-clearing yellow mustard loaded with horseradish . . . perfect for sandwiches, a rub on pork or with brats.

Where to start? Find a mustard you like and try other varieties within its family. Ask a few mustard-loving friends what they like and add those choices to your pantry.